Note: This guide originally appeared in the June 15, 2017, issue of
Wine Spectator, "Andy Beckstoffer."Few categories of wine have experienced as much recent growth in the U.S. market as rosé.
Provence, in southern France, is the region best known for quality rosé worldwide and leads the pack in sales. From 2001 to 2016, exports of Provence rosé to the United States increased from 158,000 to 11.5 million liters, according to the Wines of Provence Council.
Distinctive versions also come from elsewhere in France, as well as Italy and Spain, California, the Pacific Northwest and parts of the Southern Hemisphere.
Blush wines see their peak popularity as easy-drinking summer sippers, but more serious versions can be enjoyed year-round and have the structure to pair well with food—think charcuterie, seafood and vegetable-forward dishes.
It can be difficult to navigate a wine store awash in a sea of pink. What follows is a basic guide to the different styles of rosé, followed by buying recommendations from our editors.
How rosé is made
The easiest way to make rosé is by simply blending juice from red and white grapes together. Although this practice is widespread, it is generally considered inferior for creating still wines.
Another popular technique is called saignée (a term derived from saigner, "to bleed"). Juice is drawn from a vat of red grape must in order to concentrate the wine and extract a pink liquid that will produce, separately, a rosé. Some purist winemakers believe saignée is more a by-product of red-wine making than a stand-alone rosé production method.
A third way, maceration, puts juice from red grapes in contact with their skins for a period of time, tinting the liquid. This allows winemakers to fine-tune the color and structure of the final wine. For the gentlest extraction, winemakers may choose not to crush at all and instead do a direct pressing, which results in very pale rosés.
Styles and flavors
In general, Provence makes a light-pink sipper with delicate berry fruit. The main appellations are Côtes de Provence, Côteaux d'Aix en Provence and Côteaux Varois en Provence, yet the smaller enclaves of Cassis, Palette and Bandol are also worth exploring. Bandol, in fact, is considered a superior expression of Provence rosé. Made primarily with the sturdy Mourvèdre grape (also used in Bandol reds), the region's pinks tend to have more structure and complexity.
Slightly farther north, in the Rhône Valley, the Tavel appellation is dedicated solely to rosé production, blending local grapes like Grenache and Syrah. Unlike their Provençal counterparts, these versions are heavily extracted and ruby in color, showing plush red fruit, and floral and spice notes. Elsewhere in France, Loire Valley rosés made with Cabernet Franc are pleasing wines that often show the herbaceousness of the variety. Beaujolais makes lively pinks from the local, fruity Gamay grape.
In Spain, rosados are made in their own unique style. Rich and extracted, composed mostly of the local Tempranillo, Garnacha and Monastrell grapes, their colors are deep, and the wines often display flavors of cherry and blood orange.
Italian rosés run the gamut of personalities. Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo in Abruzzo and Bardolino Chiaretto in Veneto are two rosé-only appellations, the former making more structured rosés from the Montepulciano grape, and the latter more delicate styles often based on Corvina. Versions from the widely planted Sangiovese grape range from salmon to copper in color, and typically deliver tangy red fruit and sometimes smokiness.
In California, Rhône varieties make robust rosés, and Pinot Noir has seen success in more delicate styles. Other New World wine regions make fine examples with the grapes most familiar to them, like Pinot Noir in New Zealand, Shiraz in Australia, and Pinotage, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in South Africa.
10 recommended rosés from around the world
CHÂTEAU VANNIÈRES Bandol Rosé 2015
A beauty, with mouthwatering savory and rosemary notes gilding the edges, while the core of white peach, watermelon rind and blood orange takes center stage. The long, minerally finish ripples pleasantly. Drink now. 780 cases imported.
CHÂTEAU D'ESCLANS Côtes de Provence Rosé Whispering Angel 2016
Alluring, with a creamy feel to the mix of white peach, mango and white cherry fruit flavors that stay nicely defined on the finish, thanks to a subtle mineral edge. Drink now.
CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA Tavel 2016
This sports a plump core of strawberry and red currant notes, flanked with high-pitched rose water and floral accents. A pretty wet stone accent adds refreshing cut on the finish. Drink now. 6,500 cases imported.
ATTEMS Pinot Grigio Venezia-Giulia Ramato 2016
This light-bodied rosé is fresh and crisp, with a lovely, creamy texture to the flavors of wild strawberry, stone and spice. Drink now. 800 cases imported.
BALANCING ACT Rosé Washington 2016
Focused and lively, with floral cherry and spice aromas and supple flavors. Cabernet Franc, Mourvèdre and Sangiovese. Drink now. 400 cases made.
BEDROCK Rosé Ode to Lulu Old Vine California 2016
Floral strawberry and spice aromas glide easily toward crisp, lively raspberry and smoky anise flavors. Mataro and Grenache. Drink now. 750 cases made.
CATTLEYA Pinot Noir Sonoma County Rosé Alma de Cattleya 2016
A delicate and pretty rosé, with strawberry and raspberry flavors accented by spice and cinnamon hints. Drink now. 350 cases made.
CUNE Rioja Rosado 2016
A rosé in a traditional style, deeply colored, firmly structured, with red fruit and leafy flavors. Muscular enough for food, but remains lively and fresh. Tempranillo. Drink now through 2019. 2,000 cases imported.
JEAN-LUC COLOMBO Méditerranée Rosé Cape Bleue 2016
Streamlined watermelon and white cherry fruit has a very fresh feel. Ends with a light floral hint on the persistent finish. Not big, but precise and pure. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now. 25,000 cases imported.
YALUMBA Sangiovese South Australia Rosé The Y Series 2016
Watermelon and peach notes are appealing and smooth, with enough acidity and spice on the finish to keep the flavors fresh and bright. Drink now. 1,200 cases imported.
