One of the most iconic symbols of Italy’s Lombardy region is beautiful Lake Como, its distinctive outline appearing like a wishbone carved into the foothills of the Alps. The town of Bellagio sits near the convergence of the lake’s two southern branches; indeed, its name was once Bilacus (“between two lakes” in Latin) in the days of ancient Rome, when it was a retreat for nobility. Fortunately, Bellagio is now open to everyone, with trains running all day from Milan.
Today, in the heart of this idyllic lakeside town, you’ll find the fittingly named Ristorante Bilacus, a Wine Spectator Best of Award Excellence winner that’s been serving great wine and classic Italian cuisine for more than 50 years. The restaurant overlooks the bustling Salita Serbelloni, a well-photographed, narrow pathway with cobblestone steps that gently trickle down toward Lake Como’s shores.
Owner Aurelio Gandola took the reins of Bilacus eight years ago (it was originally owned by his grandparents). In that time, he has maintained the authenticity of its menu while taking its wine program to the next level, creating one of the most extensive lists in the area. Gandola also owns neighboring Best of Award of Excellence winner Aperitivo Et Al Wine Bar, as well as nearby Trattoria San Giacomo.
An Italian Wine List with a Festival to Match
Gandola’s passion for wine is clear: He updates Bilacus’ program twice a year, and the list is contained in an inch-thick spiral-bound notebook, like an encyclopedia of Italian wines. There’s a strong focus on Northern and Central Italy, with extensive verticals from leading wineries like Piedmont’s Gaja and Tuscany’s Argiano. (Well-known Southern Italian wineries like Campania’s Montevetrano are also included.) Trentino–Alto Adige legend Alois Lageder is particularly well-represented, with more than 30 bottlings available. Italian wine lovers be warned: It could take you quite a while to decide among the nearly 1,400 selections. That said, there are worse ways to spend an afternoon than perusing the impressive list on the restaurant’s terrace. Of course, Billacus’ knowledgeable and passionate staff are also on hand to help you make the right choice.
Impressively, Bilacus offers more than 40 wines by the glass, ranging from quaffable $11 pours to rarer options, including glasses of Ornellaia and Tignanello. The program also features more than 100 large-format bottles, with selections mirroring the overall regional strengths of the list.
But one of the most notable vinous aspects of Bilacus is not found on the list: The restaurant organizes the annual Bellagio Wine Festival, on its seventh year this September, hosting an ever-expanding roster of wineries. (The first festival featured three, last year there were 25 and this year the team hopes to have as many as 40.) The primary aim of the festival is to give guests the experience of a professional wine tasting without having to be in the industry. Last year’s wineries included Bellavista and Guido Berlucchi from Franciacorta, Mamete Prevostini and Dirupi from Valtellina and Masi and Speri from Valpolicella. The festival also boasts live music and a buffet.
50 Years of Family Recipes
While chef Marco Rando’s artfully plated dishes evoke modern techniques, Bilacus’ cuisine is undeniably rooted in Italian tradition. Per Gandola, the restaurant aims to obtain as many ingredients as possible from local sources, with a focus on freshness and quality.
To begin the meal, try the burrata served with cherry tomatoes and raw red Mazara prawns. For larger plates, a selection of pastas is always on offer, including tagliolini with anchovies and ravioli stuffed with local magro cheese, along with dishes such as gnocchi with duck ragu and risotto with venison stew. If you’re looking for a dish more outside the box, there’s the beef tartare served with burnt oil, mustard mayonnaise and honey.
For something to share (as well as a bit of a show), look to the whole pesce da condividere (meaning “fish to share”); typically seabass, though this can change based on what is fresh that day, the fish is deboned and served tableside. Meanwhile, desserts include a lemon tart, Sicilian cannoli and fior di latte gelato topped with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. The restaurant offers a prix-fixe lunch (you can choose from two- or three-course menus) and dinner à la carte all days except Mondays, when it is closed.
The cuisine of Bilacus is matched by the restaurant’s homey dining room, which surrounds visitors with warmly lit crates of wine, yellow walls and wood paneling. Joining these is the aforementioned shaded terrace, which looks almost as if it were drawn from the early 20th century. Altogether, this cozy atmosphere might just make you feel like an Italian nonna will suddenly appear to encourage you to finish your plate.
