It’s an exciting time for California Chardonnay. A modern style successfully balances power and elegance, and the wines are fresher and juicier than ever as winemakers back off heavy oak influence and/or candied ripeness and let the grape and terroir shine through.
Since I took over our coverage in 2022, I’ve been diving into what puts the category where it is today. I explored the “Legends of California Chardonnay” (July 31, 2022), the winemakers who helped pave the way. I also kicked the dirt in “California’s Best Chardonnay Vineyards” (July 31, 2023), finding a deep connection between meticulous farming and terrific wines.
The more I study, the more I believe that Chardonnay is indeed a “winemaker’s wine”; the grape largely provides a blank canvas to showcase the decisions a vintner makes—or doesn’t make—in the vineyard and cellar. The best vineyard managers farm with precision and collaborate with winemakers to deliver the best possible grapes. But once the grapes leave the vine, there are myriad decisions a winemaker is faced with in the cellar.
In this year’s tasting report, you’ll see dozens of winemakers making terrific wines in every corner of the state. But for this story, I’ve picked a small sampling of winemakers who are solidifying the dynamism of the category, inspiring enthusiasm about Chardonnay and committed to its future. I focused on a group that despite their talent and track records of outstanding scores are in my estimation flying under the radar and deserve more attention.
There’s a quiet confidence among these winemakers. The fact that many of them are stewarding existing, heralded wineries isn’t lost on them—they realize there’s a balance between making loyal customers happy and making improvements as they see fit. They are also continuing the science of the generation of winemakers before them. Moreover, they feel a clear connection to their vineyard sources, are outspoken about green initiatives and have a sense of responsibility to keep the land healthy for generations to come.
Some of these winemakers are working on the edges, where the vineyards meet the wilderness. Others are taking over multi-generation family businesses or essentially starting Chardonnay programs from scratch. There’s something special about this generation of Chardonnay makers, and their wines are worth seeking out.
Heidi Bridenhagen, MacRostie Winery
Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen hails from Wisconsin and knew her detailed and technical mind would fit in a career in science or research. Then, in her twenties, she took money she earned while waitressing and treated herself to a trip to Europe. That travel taught her that she was more independent, strong and curious than she originally thought. And she brought back a life-changing observation: “Every town had a special treat and a special drink that was their way of sharing their culture with you,” she recalls.
That idea that places can project something special is the thread running through her winemaking now. “I am an innate individualist,” explains Brindenhagen, 40. “I believe there is something unique, different and worth highlighting in each of the vineyards we partner with, and it is worth the extra attention in detail and effort to showcase what makes each site so special.”
MacRostie wines focus on cooler-climate vineyards, taking advantage of natural acidity, which Bridenhagen believes leads to increased aromatic expressions. Fermenting wine at lower temperatures is another way she preserves aromatics.
Bridenhagen also makes blends from different AVAs, including the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and the Petaluma Gap. “When I am determining which vineyards to work with, I think about soil, microclimate, clone material, age of the vineyard and more. I like diversity and the different attributes from all of these different factors.” Bridenhagen adds that she regularly asks herself what is the goal in any decision. It’s usually to make something with complexity and focus. “I make decisions that will set us up for success down the road.”
As only the third winemaker at MacRostie, carrying the winemaking torch forward doesn’t give Bridenhagen any extra pressure. “I am confident in how I come to my winemaking decisions,” she says. “I collect knowledge and ideas, I experiment and run trials, and I have a great team of amazing people working with me. I may be the winemaker for MacRostie, but I couldn’t do this by myself. From the vineyard to cellar and beyond, it is a collaboration.”
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
HB: A 5-year or older Chardonnay, with an assortment of cheeses and my father’s honey.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
HB: It can be incredibly forgiving and is capable of producing a unique and beautiful wine using many different growing and cellar conditions.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
HB: Chardonnay can surprise you. It may not look beautiful in the vineyard or ferment under ideal conditions, and suddenly, “poof,” what’s in the fruit shines through and creates a fantastic wine.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
HB: I love picking our grapes when their pH is still very low, so getting my Chardonnay to go through malolactic fermentation is always challenging.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
HB: Taste a lot of them! There are so many different styles of Chardonnay. Find examples that you really enjoy or are inspired to create. Then figure out who the winemaker was and what vineyards they used, and ask questions! It never hurts to ask, and it is a great way to establish a starting point or baseline. Then you can evolve your technique over the course of different growing seasons.
Recent Releases
MacRostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast The Key 2021 (94, $75)
MacRostie Chardonnay Carneros Sangiacomo Vineyard 2022 (92, $52)
MacRostie Chardonnay Petaluma Gap Nightwing Vineyard 2022 (92, $66)
MacRostie Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2022 (92, $40)
MacRostie Chardonnay Russian River Valley Mirabelle Vineyard 2022 (91, $52)
MacRostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2022 (90, $28)
Anthony Avila, Bien Nacido & Solomon Hills Vineyards
Winemaker Anthony Avila works with one of the most famous and desired vineyards in California—Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard in Santa Barbara, along with Solomon Hills, just 8 miles away, both farmed by the Miller family. This absolutely dictates his winemaking focus.
“My winemaking style is very farming and vineyard focused, with low intervention in the cellar,” says Avila, 38. “The goal is to make wines that taste like the vineyard, so I concentrate on making sure the right things get done at the right times out in the field so that when the grapes finally arrive at the winery, I stay out of the way as much as possible.”
Part of his interpretation is to work with native fermentations. “Usually the only thing I add to the wines is sulfur dioxide, and I keep the new oak percentage low. All of that is to highlight the vineyards themselves instead of overshadowing them with cellar technique.”
Unlike winemakers in warmer regions, Avila works with a high natural acidity in Santa Maria Valley. His decision is to harvest Chardonnay slightly riper and use a little bit more new French oak. “I like the midpalate richness that I am seeing with these changes.”
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
AA: Pan-seared scallops. The brininess of the scallops, the butter, the fruit components and acid in the Chardonnay work really well together.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
AA: Chardonnay is all about finding the balance between acidity and flavor development. Getting those two things to line up is part art and part luck, having great vineyards like Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills to work with helps a lot.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
AA: I really love the process of barrel-fermenting Chardonnay. It makes an enormous mess, but it adds so much to the wines in terms of texture and complexity.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
AA: Good Chardonnay does not like to finish primary or malolactic fermentation. So, getting the wines through both of those can be quite challenging, and it takes a lot of patience and temperature control.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
AA: I would say to stick with barrel fermenting if the resources are available and keep an eye on that intersection of flavor development and acidity at harvest.
Recent Releases
Bien Nacido Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard 2021 (93, $50)
Solomon Hills Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Solomon Hills Vineyard Belle of the Ball 2021 (93, $100)
Solomon Hills Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley 2021 (92, $50)
Chantal Forthun, Flowers Vineyard & Winery
Visiting Flowers’s Camp Meeting Ridge estate vineyard makes clear Chantal Forthun is practicing wilderness winemaking. It’s a long, windy drive to this steep spot, surrounded by dense evergreen woods and lying 1,400 feet up, and above the fog line, only 2 miles from the Pacific Ocean. “We are farming in the middle of the forest and its ecosystem,” explains Forthun.
Forthun, 42, describes her job as making wines true to place and vintage. “Our wines are coastal; there’s always been a nice backbone of acidity, and a freshness that carries through aromatically from the botanical nature of the coastal forests and natural vegetation that surround our remote, rocky vineyards.”
Only 10 percent of the 700 total acres in land is planted to grapes, with 600 acres being preserved as a natural coastal habitat, dense with forests and vibrant ecosystems that make it an unlikely spot for stunning wines. But Forthun explains the high elevation also provides incredible texture in Chardonnay by way of soil quality—or rather, dearth of soil—that exists on those windswept ridge tops. Over millennia, she says, the soil has all but eroded from the steep and exposed ridges, leaving bedrock as the terroir. The result is Chardonnay with harmonious tension, fresh and vibrant yet richly textured.
Geology has always been the defining characteristic of estate vineyards. But in 2018 the team recognized their appetite for deeper scientific knowledge of the estates. “When walking the vineyards, we often found ourselves saying, ‘We should really bring in a geologist,’ ” explains Forthun.
So they dug deep into their site—literally. First they hired a soil expert who mapped the electro-conductivity of almost every single vine row in the estate. Then they worked with a geologist to dig an extensive range of soil pits. Forthun says the findings gave her an “aha” moment.
“Previously, we adapted farming by block, but the grapes were treated uniformly in the cellar: We harvested at the same ripeness, utilized the same extraction techniques, and pressed at the same time. At the time, I valued uniformity in the winemaking process by block as a level playing field that would allow the vineyard to show its pure character.”
She now adapts the farming and winemaking techniques based on what they know about the soil and what she already understood about the elevation, coastal influence, aspect and landscape to allow each block to express its true potential. “Every single block has a winemaking strategy (fermentation, vessels, timing) that matches the farming strategy, because from the very beginning of the season we are winegrowing these blocks to become a very specific wine,” she explains.
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
CF: A coastal Chardonnay with bright acidity: briny oysters. A richer style or aged Chardonnay: roast chicken.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
CF: Every. Detail. Matters. Site selection, clonal selection, farming, harvest decision, pressing, lees inclusion, vessel selection.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
CF: Transparency. Given its thinner skin, Chardonnay purely translates the character of its ecosystem. You can literally smell and taste the site.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
CF: Coaxing our native fermentations to the finish line.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
CF: Intentionality is key. Know your intention from the very inception of your endeavor. Take the time to understand what’s driving you to make the wine. And define your guiding principle, whether that is the essence of a place, the style of wine, or the ethos which inspires your approach. Never be satisfied. Every vintage provides a new opportunity to learn. Don’t be afraid to evolve your approach. Agility and openness to new ideas, tools, methods and approaches is key. Our generation of winemakers is lucky to have a dynamic and ever-expanding tool kit at our fingertips.
Recent Releases
Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Camp Meeting Ridge 2022 (95, $90)
Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Camp Meeting Ridge 2021 (94, $90)
Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Camp Meeting Ridge Almar 2021 (94, $125)
Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2022 (92, $55)
Theresa Heredia, Gary Farrell
Working with a wine brand that has a loyal following like Gary Farrell has its advantages, admits winemaker Theresa Heredia. “On the upside, we are fortunate to have a wonderful and dedicated customer base that creates a strong sense of community and brand recognition. We are honored to be a part of our customers’ celebrations and life’s special moments—both big and small.”
But maintaining relevance and innovation while preserving more than 40 years of heritage and identity is a balancing act. “Any changes or deviations from what our customers are accustomed to may have a higher impact on us than a brand that doesn’t have such a dedicated following,” explains Heredia. “Ultimately, it’s about finding the right balance between honoring our brand’s heritage while innovating to meet the ever-evolving needs of and preferences of our customers.”
Heredia is up for the challenge. There’s an intensity to her that comes through in the wines. She’s changed many winemaking practices to tease out more texture and terroir, while still making wines that are expressive of place, as Gary Farrell wines have always been.
“It’s crazy how much you can change yet still maintain the historical style,” says Heredia. “My goal is to create wines that are even more expressive of place than before.” For Heredia, that means picking at lower ripeness levels, dialing in press programs to optimize the quality of the lees as the juice goes to barrel. She ages on primary lees throughout the entire aging process, stirring the lees to build texture. She prefers lighter toast barrels and bottling without fining, just a light filtration.
“I think of the vineyard as an organism, so every little aspect impacts not only the flavors but also the wine chemistry. Some warmer sites have taught me that the fruit needs to be a bit more ripe in order to make a flavorful, concentrated wine, while cooler sites have proven to me that ripe fruit does not equal concentration and complexity,” she explains.
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
TH: Dominican roast chicken, which features lots of garlic, oregano, citrus, adobo seasoning and many more delicious flavors. I’m imagining our Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, which is simultaneously rich, concentrated and unctuous while also having vibrant aromatics and mouthwatering acidity.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
TH: Chardonnay winemaking requires a great deal of patience and close partnership with the growers and vineyard managers. Most importantly, I feel the winemaker should respect the site and the fruit.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
TH: I love making Chardonnay because in many ways, it’s a lot easier than making red wine: You pick it, press it and then transfer it to the barrel for fermentation and aging. In many vineyards, Chardonnay is also pretty robust, can do well under different climatic conditions, and seems to hold up well during heat waves or cold, wet spells.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
TH: If yields are too high or too low, concentration, texture, complexity and expression of place may be lacking or out of balance. Working with growers to manage yields is critically important with Chardonnay.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
TH: My advice would be to simply be humble by respecting the vineyard and the fruit, and work closely with the growers and vineyard managers to ensure that crop levels and farming practices are consistent with premium grape-growing. Let the vineyard speak through the respectful farming practices, and utilize winemaking techniques that allow the site specificity to shine.
Recent Releases
Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Vineyard 2021 (93, $50)
Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Rochioli Vineyard 2021 (93, $75)
Gary Farrell Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Durell Vineyard 2020 (93, $70)
Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Ritchie Vineyard 2021 (91, $75)
Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Russian River Selection 2022 (90, $40)
Julien Howsepian, Kosta Browne
How do you take a famous Pinot Noir house—one that produced Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year in 2011—and make it equally known for Chardonnay? That’s the challenge for Kosta Browne’s Julian Howsepian.
“Ten years ago, in our competitive spirit, we did some soul searching to dig deep and identify our weaknesses,” says Howsepian, 39. “This resulted in a desire to elevate our Chardonnays to the same level as our Pinots. We challenged ourselves to make significant improvements, but we had a lot of freedom to explore, discover and define who we wanted to become as a Chardonnay producer, because we had yet to establish any precedent.”
The Chardonnay program at Kosta Browne was still a relatively blank canvas when Howsepian became winemaker. That’s when the team started shaping the style, trying new things, discovering what they liked and what they didn't like. “We didn’t come from a specific school of thought for Chardonnay, so we focused on experimenting and learning, which has contributed to our own unique style. By no means were we reinventing the wheel, but we built our own set of unique steps that ultimately created our style of Chardonnay.”
He points out this process in the spirit of Kosta Browne’s founders, Michael Browne and Dan Kosta, who were not formally trained but rather found a style through trial and error. Today Howsepian describes his winemaking as simple, with minimal or zero intervention. “That requires a tremendous amount of patience and restraint, because it is human nature to intervene and to subject our will when things don’t go perfectly to plan. Intervention in winemaking is an exchange of character. To gain one thing is to lose another.”
A critical step he employs is to crush Chardonnay grapes before pressing, to produce as many solids as possible. “By incorporating juice lees to the fermentation, you ultimately increase the solid content of the resulting wine, which is critical in the foundation to aging, whether you decide to stir or not.” He also has his own take on malolactic (ML) fermentation. “Full ML has recently been frowned upon, but that’s because many full ML wines are picked too late and don’t have the natural acidity remaining to keep a wine from feeling heavy.”
One of the last steps is blending, which Howsepian spends a lot of time on, pointing out that sometimes as little as 1 percent or 2 percent in a blend can make a world of difference. So they blend endlessly until they are completely satisfied. Next, his focus is on finding more vineyard sources to fit and support his vision for Chardonnay, and to become recognized equally as a leading Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producer.
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
JH: Dungeness crab with butter sauce. Simple yet delightful!
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
JH: Besides sourcing from the best possible vineyards, maximizing and capturing juice lees is the foundation of a great Chardonnay.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
JH: I like the challenge of producing a great Chardonnay. It requires much more precision, strategy and awareness from start to finish than most other varieties.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
JH: We choose to cultivate native fermentations for quality. However, this winemaking practice tends to progress slowly through winter and spring, so it requires a lot of patience and a careful eye to refrain from intervening.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
JH: It’s extremely difficult to make a great Chardonnay. Be intentional, take the time to learn each detail of each step along the way and the impact it has on the taste of the wine. Master your process, because at some point you will need help. Invest the time in your staff to execute your vision. A winemaker is no one without their team’s support. Find the right grapes and grapegrowers to partner with, work within your means and don’t overthink it. If working with oak, spend a lot of time fine-tuning the oak program; it makes a world of difference. Always test your theories and practices with blind tastings, know your audience and don’t forget to have fun!
Recent Releases
Kosta Browne Chardonnay Russian River Valley Bootlegger’s Hill 2020 (92, $170)
Kosta Browne Chardonnay Russian River Valley One Sixteen 2021 (92, $85)
Darrin Low, Domaine Anderson
Domaine Anderson has remained relatively under the radar since its inception in 2012. Winemaker Darrin Low joined the team in 2016, bringing with him a fresh take. “Stylistically, I’ve found it both challenging and liberating to work with these organic estate vineyards and parcels,” says Low, 55. “I’ve learned that each site has specific tendencies and needs, which allows me to coax the best qualities from each vineyard. I have been able to set an appropriate style that reflects the appellation and each site.”
Under Low’s direction, the style of the wines has become distinctive and memorable, with a purity of fruit flavors gushing on a mouthwatering frame that speaks to Anderson Valley. While Chardonnay has been grown in the area for years, a significant part goes into crisp sparkling wines, including Roederer Estate, Domaine Anderson’s sibling in sparkling wine.
“I want my wines to have energy,” explains Low. “Freshness and vibrancy in a wine not only make Chardonnay exciting to drink, but I think it makes you want a second glass. Honoring terroir helps achieve this, but I am extremely judicious in new oak use as the impact can throw the wine away from this style.” Many of his Chardonnays see only 10 percent new oak (sometimes less), letting the natural texture and acidity shine through.
Low’s challenge now is to maintain the standards he has set. He prefers minimalist winemaking, even when environmental factors might try to blow him off course. He learned valuable lessons in recent drought vintages (2020–2022) that will help him in subsequent years. For example, he says, “Native fermentations can be tricky, so I am still experimenting with native versus organic yeast and no fining to maintain the integrity of flavor.”
Low also puts a lot of emphasis on the way the grapes are farmed. Domaine Anderson wines come from organic certified and/or biodynamic certified grapes, including estate vineyards they farm personally. “Certification ensures that we follow a strict standard and that we don’t use any synthetic chemicals or pesticides in our farming.”
These practices include composting, planting cover crops and bringing in sheep. They also introduce beneficial mites, keep bees on the property, and secure wildlife acreage that flanks both sides of the Dach home vineyard. They keep a small flock of chickens on the property and plant rows of insectary plants, all to support biodiversity. “The remarkable thing about Chardonnay is its adaptability to world climes and wine styles,” Low observes.
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
DL: A rich and flaky grilled salmon comes to mind to pair with a crisp Chardonnay or, if indulging, it’s hard to beat a juicy Maine lobster with a mineral-driven white Burgundy.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
DL: Making barrel-fermented Chardonnay has taught me to be infinitely patient and to trust my instincts about the process from vineyard to bottle, but particularly in the cellar.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
DL: I appreciate that Chardonnay displays great diversity and versatility. All of our Chardonnays are estate-grown and they are distinctive, with each vineyard’s terroir imprinted upon it.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
DL: One of the biggest challenges I face is caused by one of our best resources: the sun. We receive plenty of sun in California, and our Chardonnays can develop intense citrus flavors, acidity and ripeness. With consistent canopy management and other tools we have developed, we have learned to tame the intensity so that more nuanced and subtle qualities of texture and flavor emerges.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
DL: If you’re going to make Chardonnay, you need to approach it with an open mind and humility, but you also have to have a plan. Know what style you want to make, make sure you are informed about it, and be confident in your decision-making. Above all, be prepared to learn from your mistakes.
Recent Releases
Domaine Anderson Chardonnay Anderson Valley Dach Vineyard 2021 (93, $50)
Domaine Anderson Chardonnay Anderson Valley Walraven Vineyard 2021 (92, $50)
Domaine Anderson Chardonnay Anderson Valley 2021 (91, $45)
Domaine Anderson Chardonnay Anderson Valley Navarro-Fairhills Vineyard 2021 (91, $50)
Joe Nielsen, Ram’s Gate
Winemaker Joe Nielsen has been paying attention to taste trends. “The evolving American palate seems to be leaning towards cleaner, more refined ingredients in the foods we savor and a heightened appreciation for craftsmanship evident in wines, cocktails and the overall fine dining experience,” he explains.
Nielsen, 38, is also ambitious. When he was promoted to general manager and winemaker at Ram’s Gate in 2021, he was happy to be given carte blanche to decide the style direction for the wines. “This is a rare relationship with owners and winemakers, and one for which I’m extremely grateful. I am able to produce the wines I would seek for myself as a wine lover and collector.”
So far, the results have been impressive, starting with Nielsen’s preference for harvesting fruit at what he considers the intersection of ripeness and freshness. This carries over to his decisions in the cellar.
“We collaborate with over 20 different coopers, and our goal remains consistent: to ensure oak plays a supportive role, enhancing the fruit’s natural character, much like a pinch of salt elevating a favorite dish.” He avoids what he calls the “tug of war” between being too fresh or too rich, aiming for a perfect balance of elements.
Nielsen has two other objectives. One is to seek out and experiment with new vineyard sources, bottling them as single-vineyard expressions if he can. The other focus is on the farming of the estate vineyards. By his second vintage at the winery, in 2019, organic practices were in place. “We are proud to have completed three full years of organic farming and are currently in the process of obtaining our CCOF certification, which we expect to receive this year.” He’s also on the lookout for innovative practices, such as using sheep for grazing and fertilization, falconry for natural pest control and the recent purchase of a Monarch electric autonomous tractor to reduce carbon emissions.
His close work in the vineyards gives him a better sense of their personalities. “Some [vineyards] effortlessly reveal their idiosyncrasies, making their story easy to convey, while others require more time and attention—yet are equally important for us to tell their story,” he explains.
With Chardonnay, he says the complexity and allure of the grape never fails to ignite his excitement for what lies ahead. “With ongoing advancements in farming practices and a relentless pursuit of refinement in wine, I am excited to be included in the future of Chardonnay in our region,” he says.
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
JN: Either the classic Chicken Paillard or poached scallops.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
JN: Chardonnay production epitomizes my approach to winemaking. There’s no “one size fits all” method—from farming and terroir considerations to cellar handling and cooperage selection. Embracing adaptable methodologies based on real-time indicators enables us to craft personality-driven Chardonnays, each reflecting the unique characteristics of diverse terroirs and AVAs.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
JN: [At Ram’s Gate], we value the transparency of both the terroir and the winemaker’s influence and philosophy. While we honor the inherent qualities of the site, the techniques employed in the cellar allow for various interpretations of what we consider paramount from that particular vineyard site.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
JN: One of the greatest challenges is exercising patience. I relish observing how Chardonnay evolves in the barrel and drawing from my experience to discern whether intervention in the winemaking process is necessary or if the wine should be left to express itself. I deliberately create a gap between primary fermentation and a potential secondary [malolactic] fermentation to assess the wine’s need for [malolactic], ensuring it maintains tension and precision on the palate and achieves the desired density and concentration. This decision-making process often spans several weeks to a month, allowing me to evaluate all Chardonnay lots collectively, akin to curating a cohesive and harmonious musical album.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
JN: Avoid adhering to dogma. Instead, embrace experimentation and strive to understand the tailored practices that can authentically capture the essence of the vineyard or grape variety. What proves successful in one microclimate may not necessarily yield optimal results elsewhere. Remain a student of your palate and avoid thinking you are the master.
Recent Releases
Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Russian River Valley Bucher Vineyard 2021 (93, $74)
Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2021 (92, $74)
Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Russian River Valley El Diablo 2021 (92, $74)
Ryan Rochioli, Rochioli Vineyards
The Rochioli family is integral to the history of the Russian River Valley. They started as farmers in the early 1900s, growing hops and string beans, and grapes destined for jug wines like French Colombard and Valdiguie. But when Joe Rochioli Jr. started planting Pinot Noir in 1968, both Rochioli and Russian River Valley became synonymous with high quality Pinot Noir and later Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
At first, they only sold grapes to local winemakers who put the Rochioli name on the labels of some of their most exciting wines. Then the family made the move to create their own label in 1987, further cementing their importance in the region. They were also ahead of the curve in designating blocks within their namesake vineyard, dividing them into parcels for specific bottlings.
So now, as Ryan Rochioli, 30, takes over from his father, Tom, as the fourth generation to farm on this land and make wine from it, his work order is clear: “My job is simply to take my dad’s torch and run with it. That’s the beauty of a multigenerational family property. The lessons learned have been passed on and I am the lucky recipient of those learnings.” His sister Rachael, 34, has recently moved into the role of general manager.
Not surprisingly, Rochioli defines the family style as “traditional.” To Ryan, that means a hands-off approach. “We shoot for consistency from vintage to vintage by adhering to methods that have been passed down for decades. When you taste a Rochioli Chardonnay, we want you to taste our land, not our winemaking techniques. We like to preserve our traditions not for tradition’s sake but because the methods are tried and true,” he says.
The oldest Chardonnay vines on the family estate were planted in 1972 and the newest in 1999. Rochioli points out that his family plans to keep it all going for future generations; the purest definition of sustainability. “Over the years we have improved our farming practices that include wildlife habitats, water conservation, more use of organic material for fertilization and pest and disease control. As technology improves, we make every effort to incorporate that into our business. We don’t refer to all these things as just ‘sustainable;’ we believe it’s the right and responsible thing to do,” explains Rochioli.
If there’s any worry about the next generation taking over, it’s impossible to see; the family is obviously close. “We embrace creativity and spend a lot of time brainstorming new ideas, initiatives and perspectives,” says Rochioli. “My mother, Theresa, has always taught us to appreciate each other and respect each person’s role in the company. She has always been an instrumental part of our family’s business and continues to support us all today.”
Rochioli points out that, of course, his father has been his greatest mentor. “When my father got into the business, he had an amazing set of peers and mentors such as Steve Kistler, Burt Williams, Helen Turley and Tom Dehlinger, all of whom are industry icons. So, when I say my dad is my mentor, it goes much deeper than one man’s knowledge. I'm benefiting from his relationships and learning the most important insights from some of the industry’s most influential leaders.”
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
RR: One of the things I appreciate most about Chardonnay is how compatible it is with a wide range of foods, but my favorite pairing is our River Block Chardonnay with my dad’s pheasant roulade. It’s a rather simple recipe, but the combination of pheasant, prosciutto, Parmigiano-Reggiano and sage is absolutely delicious.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
RR: The first thing I learned about making Chardonnay I learned as a young boy, because I heard my dad say it hundreds of times: “There are no shortcuts when making Chardonnay.” Once I began my winemaking career, I started to understand what he meant.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
RR: For us, Chardonnay is very labor intensive, particularly in the beginning. People often say Pinot Noir is difficult, but in my experience, turning Chardonnay grapes into wine can be more complicated than turning Pinot Noir into wine! I’m very fortunate to be working alongside my father. He’s been making Chardonnay at Rochioli for 40 vintages, and he is passionate about transferring all his knowledge to me. Every time we discuss Chardonnay in depth, it’s like my own personal master class!
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
RR: It really comes down to picking at the right maturity and ensuring a healthy primary and secondary fermentation. We inoculate with ML bacteria early during the active primary fermentation; our aim is to have the yeast consume some of the diacetyl so we get beautiful structure without having a strong buttery character.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
RR: Find a few good mentors with different experiences and backgrounds, and be an open-minded sponge. Be sure to pick your mentors wisely. Find a circle of like-minded friends who share your interests and desire to learn and teach each other. Taste as many wines as you can from as many regions as you can, and find your unique viewpoint. Travel to Burgundy, but only do so after you have a few vintages under your belt, so you understand our regional gifts and limitations.
Recent Releases
Rochioli Chardonnay Russian River Valley Rachael’s Vineyard 2022 (95, $84)
Rochioli Chardonnay Russian River Valley Little Hill 2022 (94, $80)
Rochioli Chardonnay Russian River Valley River Block 2022 (94, $80)
Rochioli Chardonnay Russian River Valley Sweetwater 2022 (94, $80)
Rochioli Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2022 (93, $64)
Jill Russell, Cambria
For Cambria winemaker Jill Russell, her role is as decision-maker. “I can’t control everything, such as the growing season or weather events during harvest, but I take it all in and make the best decisions I can,” she says.
It’s a calm take for a winemaker who is responsible for 70,000 cases annually from estate-only vineyards. “I found that working with a larger volume of wine at a larger winery has had many more benefits than I imagined,” explains Russell, 37. Coming from a smaller-production world, she admits she found Cambria’s size intimidating at first, but she realized that everything operates as at a boutique winery, but at scale. “We have abundant resources: more staff, equipment, barrels, tanks, and the best technology to make the best wine possible,” she explains.
That said, there are plenty of moving parts to manage. “I’ve become hyper-focused in my attention to detail, because I have to be, while learning to let go of tasks that can be delegated.” For example, she used to filter the wines personally. “But now I let our talented crew do what they do best. I check in with them frequently, but then I go spend my time in the vineyard, check in on other cellars, taste different vintages and pay attention to all the details that are so crucial to the quality of Cambria.”
Luckily for Russell, the estate vineyard surrounds the winery and she can easily check on the vines all year long. When it comes to harvest, she starts thinking ahead. “Not only do I determine which day the grapes are picked, I decide what to do with the fruit when it comes into the winery. Will the juice go to barrels right away to ferment? Should it ferment cold in stainless steel tanks? Which yeast do we use, and do we allow the juice to go through malolactic fermentation?”
The Santa Maria AVA is cold, so in cooler than average years, she employs a secondary, malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity and bring balance to a wine. In this she diverges with the common belief that Chardonnay that undergoes malolactic fermentation always results in a buttery flavor. “I use this technique as a tool for achieving balance in each vintage. In cooler years, I closely monitor analysis and taste right after pressing and post-primary fermentation. If the acid levels are too high, I may opt for partial or full malolactic fermentation to soften the wine’s mouthfeel and to create blending options.”
Typically, Russell prevents malolactic fermentation in her stainless-steel fermented wines, which are then aged in neutral oak. Conversely, her barrel-fermented wines, which see a portion of new French oak, often undergo malolactic fermentation because everything integrates so well. “Even then, our wines avoid a buttery taste as we intentionally use a bacteria strain with low diacetyl production,” she explains, adding that extended, cool fermentations can create richness and smoothness without the buttery profile.
Russell is also a big fan of the scientific method. “During my first vintage, I wanted to get to know the blocks, so I made several picks, fermented the wines in barrel and stainless, and used different commercial yeasts, nearly driving the lab crazy with how many lots we produced. This led to my making a Chardonnay with more stainless-steel fermentation than in previous years and brought that freshness to life.” These days the percentage of wine that goes into stainless steel, barrel fermentation and new French oak changes every year. “I take a lot of time to carefully match a barrel’s toast and forest to the vineyard block, so as not to overpower the finished wine.”
Taking over winemaking in 2017, Russell is proud of what she’s accomplished so far. “It’s not that the wines have gotten better since I walked through the door—they’ve always been great quality. I just want the world to know what we have to offer, and I’m driven to elevate the wines more and more each vintage.”
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
JR: Most recently I had our Chardonnay with a salmon niçoise salad, but I also always love a seafood paella with Chardonnay.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
JR: I’ve learned that Chardonnay can be so many things. It’s best to let the vintage and place shine but you can find balance with vinification decisions and blending.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
JR: I’ve made Chardonnay throughout my winemaking career and love that it can be so expressive both of the place where it’s grown and of the winemaker.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
JR: The biggest challenge is the misconception that people think they don’t like Chardonnay. It is such a versatile wine that they just haven’t found the right Chardonnay to match their preferences.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
JR: My advice would be to trial different winemaking techniques, as this is crucial to understanding how the grape best expresses a vineyard’s unique characteristics. Each vintage, experiment with different fermentation methods, yeast strains, and oak aging to find the style that best suits your vineyard’s site and your preferences. It’s important to seek guidance from mentors, taste constantly, be open to different styles, and learn from every experience.
Recent Releases
Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Katherine’s Vineyard Signature Collection 2021 (93, $60)
Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Clone 4 2022 (92, $48)
Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley West Point 2021 (91, $48)
Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Fog Tide 2021 (90, $48)
Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Katherine’s Vineyard 2022 (90, $22)
Kathryn Vogt, Pahlmeyer
For decades Pahlmeyer Chardonnay has been an icon of the category and at the height of quality, with a style based on ripeness and rich textures, designed by none other than Chardonnay legend Helen Turley.
Today the wine is in the capable hands of Kathryn (Katie) Vogt, 36, and the importance of the brand is not lost on her. “Pahlmeyer Chardonnay is a stalwart in Napa Chardonnay,” she acknowledges. “For me, evolving the style is more about perfecting the process in the vineyard and in the winery. The fundamentals of Pahlmeyer Chardonnay will persist—mountain fruit, a focus on the Wente clone, and François Frères barrels.” But, she adds, “You might also notice a touch more acidity year over year because I cannot help myself—I love acid.”
Vogt says that some might expect that success for her means maintaining the status quo. Not so. “I am just not wired to think like that. Autopilot will never create soulful, dynamic wines. As a winemaker, being critical of your craft and making small improvements to process or philosophy keep you engaged with the vineyards and engaged with the wines. This is where the magic happens.”
Like many Chardonnay winemakers, her style starts in the vineyard. “You have to get it right there first. Walk the rows, taste the berries, know the chemistry, but don’t live and die by the numbers. If it tastes interesting and compelling in the vineyard it will translate in the winery,” she says.
Her winemaking then becomes a direct response to what the block, site and pick is asking of her. “I do not have a set recipe for Pahlmeyer Chardonnay, more of a north star vision,” she explains. “I will employ different winemaking techniques to amplify various site characteristics. For example, to balance out the freshness of Hyde Vineyard, I might choose to bâtonnage a few weeks longer than other lots. Or to preserve the intense aroma of Waters Ranch, I try to be more reductive and non-aerative. I think about what each site will contribute to the blend and create a wine making strategy to let those attributes shine.”
To be clear, the brand was sold to Gallo in 2019, and Cleo Pahlmeyer (daughter of founder Jayson Pahlmeyer) makes some terrific Sonoma Coast Chardonnays under her personal Wayfarer brand. But for fans of Pahlmeyer Chardonnay, they can feel confident with Vogt at the helm.
Chardonnay Q&A
MW: Favorite Chardonnay and food pairing?
KV: Pahlmeyer Chardonnay and roast chicken.
MW: What is the most important thing you’ve learned about making Chardonnay?
KV: Picking decision trumps most other decisions.
MW: What do you like about working with Chardonnay?
KV: Diversity in site, clones.
MW: What is your biggest challenge when it comes to Chardonnay?
KV: Diversity in site, clones. Haha.
MW: What would be your advice to a new winemaker starting to work with Chardonnay?
KV: Go taste wines! Chardonnay is an amazing varietal that can take on so many personalities. Understanding the range and the potential styles is a great place to start defining your own.
Recent Releases
Pahlmeyer Chardonn Napa Valley 2022 (94, $130)
Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Napa Valley Jayson 2021 (92, $60)
