Gattinara Stands Tall

Nebbiolo achieves a unique expression in northern Piedmont

Robert Camuto

From the Apr 30, 2015, issue

Gattinara remains overshadowed by its more prestigious neighbors in southern Piedmont's Langhe. The small appellation counts only 250 acres under vine, compared with more than 4,800 acres in the Barolo zone. Its top wines sell for about $70, compared with $150 or more for some top Barolo crus. But the dozen or so producers of Gattinara Nebbiolo—traditionally known as Spanna—do not consider themselves second-class. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto reports.

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